A postcard from Seville
Memories from my solo winter weekend in Seville
There’s a joy about winter sun that is hard to describe. Sat at my desk on a rainy London February day I decided that was just what I need to break my winter blues - I googled ‘where in europe is warm right now’. An hour later I’d booked flights for a weekend in seville.
Next month I’m going back to Seville with my family - My grandma saw my photos from that solo weekend and decided she wanted to go too which feels like the best compliment a trip can get. As I sat down to plan the trip with her I reflected on my visit last year.
I arrived late on Friday evening and made my way to San Lorenzo, a quiet neighborhood where I’d found an Airbnb. Having left a cold and drizzly London, the contrast and immediate - stepping into the square to find families sitting outside in the early evening light, kids playing football, the warmth still hanging in the air. In February. London felt very far away.
The weekend unfolded slowly. My mornings were small rituals with plenty of pan con tomate, the most delicious fresh orange juice, good coffee. Everything incredibly good value compared to home. €1.50 for an espresso, wine that costs less than a pint, tapas that arrive at the bar without you asking for them.
The Alcázar was breathtaking in a way that caught me off guard. I went on my first morning thinking I’d spend an hour and lost three wandering through gardens, bathing in the gorgeous light and taking in the beautiful buildings. The tilework, the fountains, the orange trees - I could have stayed longer. Afterwards I found a bar nearby and sat outside with tapas and a drink, content to just watch the city move around me.
I had done a bit of research on where I wanted to eat - always an important part of a trip for me! On Saturday evening I sat at the bar at Espacio Eslava, a modern tapas bar and restaurant with blackboard menus and plenty of wines by the glass. An older american couple came in and sat beside me - I recognised him from a film but couldn’t place his face. We chatted about Seville - they’d chosen to spend a few months here to survive the winter months. I’m rarely the kind of solo diner who strikes up conversation, much more comfortable with a book and my own company but this interaction felt perfect.
On Sunday, I took a long walk around the city. Taking in the Plaza de España, the Parque de María Luisa and the little streets of Santa Cruz. I had a destination in mind, aiming to arrive at the old tapas restuarant El Riconcillo at 1pm when it opened. I joined the small gathering of people waiting outside and then found a spot at the bar - a perfect spot where I could watch the jamón being cut to serve right in front of me and really take in the beautifully preserved traditional interior, I enjoyed some delcious rice, croquetas and a glass of sangria (I really was trying to kid myself it was summer).
In the evening I wandered down to the river to sit and watch the sunset - hard to beleive that the sun was yet to set at appraoching 7pm on a winter evening. I joined the groups of people sat by the Triana bridge with a drink, watching the light change over the water.
For my final morning, I had one last wish to tick off - Churros. I headed to Bar el Comercio for a generous helping of Churros with chocolate, and a final orange juice. Content with my weekend away, battery fully charged by the sun.
Now as I plan this year’s trip, I’m thinking about what my grandma will love - definitely the Cathedral, the Alcázar, some flamenco and plenty of spanish white wine! But I'm also wondering what I'll notice this time that I missed before, what changes when you're showing someone a place instead of discovering it yourself.
Recommendations
Where to eat and drink:
Coffee & breakfast
PANYPIU - perfect bakery for breakfast and an orange juice
Bar el Comercio - go for the churros, they’re delicious
Cafe Placido y Grata - trendy cafe inside a modern hotel, excellent coffee and breakfast
Tapas & dinner
El Rinconcillo - authentic tapas spot. I turned up at 1pm when they opened and stood at the bar, but I think you can book too
Espacio Eslava - walk-ins only outside and at the bar, or you can book a table inside. Everything was delicious
Bar Santa Cruz - classic spot, great for tapas and a quick drink
I created a big google maps list to guide my wandering around the city, the link for that is here
What to see
Alcázar - book ahead if possible, plan to spend a few hours
Cathedral and Giralda - one of the largest cathedrals in the world, climb the tower for views
Setas de Sevilla - nice views, especially in the sun
Triana - wander the neighborhood and check out Mercado de Triana. The area around Triana bridge is lovely at sunset, with lots of people sat out having a drink.
Just walking around - the city is beautiful for aimless wandering
